pairs with the fries — sweet and salty is the move at any fast-food spot

numbing-spicy in the real Sichuan way — peppercorns are the whole point, don't pick them out

tofu, mushroom, bamboo shoots all should be present — if not, skip it

add chicken or salmon to make it a meal, anchovies are the make-or-break

crispy outside, sticky-sweet sauce — Americanized but unapologetic and genuinely good