simple done right — basil pop, blistered cornicione, two slices is a meal

silky and rich without cream — just yolks, pecorino, and pancetta done correctly

house dressing is the move, ask for extra croutons and split it as a starter

good test of the bar program — if the house cocktail is bland, stick to wine

order it on a cold day — leftovers somehow even better the next morning