crispy fried, pickle on top, soft potato bun — the best of these will surprise you

soup dumplings — handle with care, bite small first, sip the broth, then the rest

feeds one well, two if you're not super hungry, faster than ordering individually

numbing-spicy in the real Sichuan way — peppercorns are the whole point, don't pick them out

large is enough for two, ideal on a cold day or when you feel a cold coming on