peanuts, dried chilies, classic balance of sweet-savory-spicy when done well

numbing-spicy in the real Sichuan way — peppercorns are the whole point, don't pick them out

soup dumplings — handle with care, bite small first, sip the broth, then the rest

griddled crispy edges and juicy middle — ask for medium-rare, fries non-negotiable

pairs nicely with starters, sets the tone for the rest of the meal