usually the best value and reflects what the kitchen is most proud of

add chicken or salmon to make it a meal, anchovies are the make-or-break

medium-rare, ask for the chimichurri or peppercorn sauce — fries should be thin and crispy

good test of the bar program — if the house cocktail is bland, stick to wine

ask if it's house-made and warm, vanilla ice cream is the right pairing