salted right out of the steamer — order while you decide on the rest

a safe order at almost any place — if this is bad, the menu has bigger problems

perfect light dessert after a big ramen bowl, rice flour shell holds up well

broth is the play — get tonkotsu, properly cloudy and rich, hours-long simmer obvious in every spoonful

good test of the bar program — if the house cocktail is bland, stick to wine